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NicksGarage
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 Posted: June 15th, 2011, 6:42 pm |
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| GTC Owner, Site Admin |
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Joined: May 7th, 2011, 11:43 pm
Posts: 492
Location: San Diego, CA
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Until I can get one of my windows pulled out I'm going to start posting pictures of the current state for reference. First off is the handle that latches the window closed. They say LE VAN SPECIALTY CO INC. with a patent number of 3,087,537. Click here to read the patent.
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handle1.jpg [ 142.51 KiB | Viewed 1452382 times ]
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handle2.jpg [ 27.51 KiB | Viewed 1452382 times ]
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NicksGarage
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Posted: June 15th, 2011, 6:45 pm |
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| GTC Owner, Site Admin |
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Joined: May 7th, 2011, 11:43 pm
Posts: 492
Location: San Diego, CA
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This is the outside of the bathroom window so Eric can see what it looks like, this is for the floor plan that has the double closet. The left 1/3 of the window is blocked by the closet and has a fiberglas insert behind the glass to block it out.
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bathroom_01.jpg [ 95.29 KiB | Viewed 1452381 times ]
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bathroom_02.jpg [ 65.59 KiB | Viewed 1452381 times ]
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Last edited by NicksGarage on June 15th, 2011, 10:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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NicksGarage
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Posted: June 15th, 2011, 6:56 pm |
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| GTC Owner, Site Admin |
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Joined: May 7th, 2011, 11:43 pm
Posts: 492
Location: San Diego, CA
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The original fuzzy channel that the windows slide in is a wire mesh with flocking in a U shape with flat bottom and verticle sides. I haven't found the exact shape and size. I bought one kind that is very close but the sides are angled. The dimension across the top is right but the bottom is narrower. I cut a section and put it under one window and it is very hard to move the window. The alternative that is available at Vintage Trailer Supply, http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Air ... ts-278.htm, is an all rubber extrusion with flocking on inside as seen below. I bought one of these and worked it in under my kitchen window (I had remove both the top and bottom old fuzzy channel. This rubber channel didn't go around the corners as nice as the wire one. It actually bunched up and I had to play around with it to get the window closed. It's been in there a couple months now and is now holding the correct shape. The window slides very nicely on this channel. I wasn't able to get it to go all the way around with the window together. Note, this rubber fuzzy channel is solid so it will not let water get to the drain slots in the windows. Matching slots need to be cut into the rubber so that any water will go out instead of in to the camper. The wire channel drains along it's length.
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fuzzy_channel_vts.jpg [ 15.42 KiB | Viewed 1452381 times ]
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Last edited by NicksGarage on June 15th, 2011, 8:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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NicksGarage
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Posted: June 15th, 2011, 7:20 pm |
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| GTC Owner, Site Admin |
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Joined: May 7th, 2011, 11:43 pm
Posts: 492
Location: San Diego, CA
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I couldn't get a great picture of the fuzzy sweep strip that mounts to the outside window trim and seals the sliding pane. The window has to come out to change this. I don't know if once the window is out if the bar can be removed without totally disassembling the window. UPDATE: After looking at some discussion on the Revcon forum it looks like this trim may just be pressed onto the edge of the glass. If so the sweep could be replaced withouth disassembling the window. Will have to take a closer look. Vintage Trailer Supply sells this material to fit Revcons so I bought a section of it to try. Here is a link. http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Air ... ts-277.htmI won't know if it is a match until I try it. Update: Click here for more information on the sweep.
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sweep.jpg [ 150.29 KiB | Viewed 1452379 times ]
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Last edited by NicksGarage on June 16th, 2011, 1:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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NicksGarage
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Posted: June 16th, 2011, 9:23 am |
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| GTC Owner, Site Admin |
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Joined: May 7th, 2011, 11:43 pm
Posts: 492
Location: San Diego, CA
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Just to clarify...
So far it looks like the all rubber channel is the better solution. The shape of it grips the channel when installed. The wire based channel that I got fits realy tight to the window and when I would try to slide the window, the channel would move and then bunch up. I'm not sure if gluing it in will prevent this or if it would loosen up over time. And keep in mind I only had it at the bottom of the window. With it at the top, it might be twice as tight.
I still plan to try the wire channel installation when I have a window out of the coach.
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NicksGarage
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Posted: June 16th, 2011, 9:37 am |
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| GTC Owner, Site Admin |
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Joined: May 7th, 2011, 11:43 pm
Posts: 492
Location: San Diego, CA
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I'm also trying to confirm if the Revcon windows of the era were made by Le Van. I already got someone to measure the height of windows in their 1972 Revcon and they said they are 26 3/4" tall. Ours are 24" tall. While this means that Revcon windows wouldn't fit directly, parts could be modified or cut down to work.
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NicksGarage
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Posted: June 27th, 2011, 10:21 pm |
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| GTC Owner, Site Admin |
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Joined: May 7th, 2011, 11:43 pm
Posts: 492
Location: San Diego, CA
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I measured the windows and here are the approximate amounts of stripping needed to redo all the windows. This is based on my floor plan that has half the bathroom window blocked off by the closet. May need different amounts for models with the vanity next to the bath.
Fuzzy channel - 26.7 feet
7/16" grey filler - 13.3 feet
3/8" grey filler - 28.3 feet
Fuzzy sweep strip - 7.3 feet
I still need to measure the grey channel that holds the fixed window panes.
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NicksGarage
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Posted: July 12th, 2011, 1:19 pm |
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| GTC Owner, Site Admin |
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Joined: May 7th, 2011, 11:43 pm
Posts: 492
Location: San Diego, CA
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I did find an old post on the Revcon forum where someone was looking for a latch for one of their windows and they stated that it was stamped "Le Van". So that gets us closer.
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NicksGarage
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Posted: July 24th, 2011, 3:58 pm |
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| GTC Owner, Site Admin |
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Joined: May 7th, 2011, 11:43 pm
Posts: 492
Location: San Diego, CA
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After going back to the junkyard to take apart some of the windows there I'll have to update the amounts of the strips needed to rebuild the windows. The window frame extrusion is held together by a small aluminum strip and four screws. Once the screws are remove you can carefully spread the frame apart to get the glass out. It was quite difficult on the small windows at the junkyard so care must be taken not to bend the frames. Also the screws holding the windows in can be quite difficult to remove. I used a small Makita impact driver and give them a few whacks to get them going.
Here are the different types of strips needed. I'll add the lengths and pictures of each later.
Fuzzy channel
Grey filler for inside of sliding windows
Grey filler for outside of sliding windows
Grey filler for inside of fixed rear window
Grey U-shaped gasket for fixed window panes
Grey U-shaped gasket for center post
Fuzzy sweep for center post
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NicksGarage
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Posted: December 15th, 2011, 8:41 pm |
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| GTC Owner, Site Admin |
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Joined: May 7th, 2011, 11:43 pm
Posts: 492
Location: San Diego, CA
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Here are some pictures of the Swisco sweep strip installed in the moulding. The stuff that VTS was selling that required reusing the aluminum holder was just too wimpy and it would be a royal pain to install. Both of the Swisco parts have a 9/32" wide backing strip that fits perfectly in the moulding. Part number 58-045 has a pile depth of 1/4", 58-128 has a pile depth of 5/32". The 1/4" version fits nice and tight against the glass. You'll need 8 or 10 feet depending on if you have 4 or 5 sliders. Swisco sells it for around 8 dollars, plus shipping, for a 25' length which gives you enough to do all the windows and have enough to do them again. Here are the links to Swisco's site: 58-045 - http://www.swisco.com/Gray-Wool-Pile-9_ ... ile/58-04558-128 - http://www.swisco.com/Gray-Wool-Pile-9_ ... ile/58-128Attachment:
File comment: 58-045 1/4" pile.
sweep12.jpg [ 33.72 KiB | Viewed 1452149 times ]
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File comment: 58-045 1/4" pile.
sweep13.jpg [ 42.16 KiB | Viewed 1452149 times ]
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File comment: 58-128 5/32" pile.
sweep15.jpg [ 43.74 KiB | Viewed 1452149 times ]
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File comment: 58-128 5/32" pile.
sweep14.jpg [ 45 KiB | Viewed 1452149 times ]
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Swanson
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Posted: January 25th, 2012, 3:25 pm |
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| GTC Owner |
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Joined: May 8th, 2011, 12:11 pm
Posts: 114
Location: Albany Oregon
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I have the same leak.. How did you replace the wood that was rotted out around the window? If you can post more info about what all you did that would be of great help. My Hall is in a nice dry shop for the winter so I'm not to worried right now. But long term I know I need to fix both driver side windows.
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windymatt
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Posted: January 30th, 2012, 10:52 pm |
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| GTC Owner |
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Joined: May 10th, 2011, 8:46 am
Posts: 349
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Sure. Assuming that you have found substantial amounts of rotted wood within the body cavity, what you will need to do is to first remove all the bad pieces with an old chisel of heavy screwdriver and a shop vacuum. You then will measure the width and length of the openings where new wood is needed and head either to your vast supply of nice, dry Douglas Fir lumber (#2 Pine will be fine as well) or, to the lumber yard and stock up. I have a good inventory of woodworking equipment here - including a Shopsmith with bandsaw, belt/drum sander, large face sander, planer, tablesaw, shaper, jigsaw and etc - most of which were used in getting the precise sizes and dimensions for the replacement pieces. If you don't have access to a full shop you'll just have to rely on what you have, and a disc grinder.
For better or worse, I didn't use any glue or epoxy when installing the new wood parts, since the window will keep everything nice and stable once assembled. I also decided not to use any treated lumber in the process to avoid off-gassing. Bad stuff.
All the old rubber gasketing has to be removed carefully from both the frames and the body to allow for a good seal when assembling. Also, when you remove the old window channel you need to scrupulously clean out the aluminum seats to avoid creating unwanted water channels and sticking windows. You will need to cut drain holes in your new flocked rubber channel (Nick knows the part number) to match those in the old steel/composite channel exactly. Important!!
Be very cautious when handling the windows as they are actually pretty rare and expensive to reproduce. I found that whoever had cut out the window openings at the factory had gone off the mark in several spots, making the correct positioning of the windows not too easy, but you must be careful to see that the new seals are amking contact with the body all the way round every window. I had to apply a little silicone in one or two spots to make sure!
If you haven't removed the windows yet, be careful not to hog out the ^%#! Phillips head screws with the wrong driver, as some can be a real bugger to get out. I replaced most of the screws with stainless on reassembly to avoid difficulties in the future.
I will get the make and model of the rubber gasketing I used as it worked very nicely
Any questions, just ask.
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NicksGarage
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Posted: January 31st, 2012, 10:44 am |
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| GTC Owner, Site Admin |
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Joined: May 7th, 2011, 11:43 pm
Posts: 492
Location: San Diego, CA
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I'm planning on using bluwood on mine when I do it. This is a safe treated lumber that is water and rot resistant. Lowes down here was selling it for a while but has stopped. I have some already that I bought for another project. See if it's available in your area. It is non-hazardous and can be worked with regular tools. http://bluwood.com/
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Swanson
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Posted: February 1st, 2012, 5:42 pm |
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| GTC Owner |
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Joined: May 8th, 2011, 12:11 pm
Posts: 114
Location: Albany Oregon
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Thanks for the info.. Due to the missing parts and glass on the back window I may have to try adapting something else in there. I'm currently working on house projects so the hall is on the back burner until March.
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NicksGarage
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Posted: February 1st, 2012, 7:06 pm |
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| GTC Owner, Site Admin |
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Joined: May 7th, 2011, 11:43 pm
Posts: 492
Location: San Diego, CA
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Swanson wrote: Thanks for the info.. Due to the missing parts and glass on the back window I may have to try adapting something else in there. I'm currently working on house projects so the hall is on the back burner until March. Did you get the message I sent you about the missing aluminum strip for your window? Matt had the same problem on his and I found some smaller windows and he was able to use two pieces to fix his. I have more for you if you want them. I don't know what other parts you are missing but I also have extra latches for the windows.
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windymatt
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Posted: February 7th, 2012, 10:54 am |
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| GTC Owner |
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Joined: May 10th, 2011, 8:46 am
Posts: 349
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Do you mean the back window as in the fixed one all the way aft? If so, that shouldn't be too big a problem - maybe. If not, like Nick said, he might have the parts you need.
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NicksGarage
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Posted: September 11th, 2012, 7:34 am |
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| GTC Owner, Site Admin |
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Joined: May 7th, 2011, 11:43 pm
Posts: 492
Location: San Diego, CA
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Here's an exerpt from a post on the Revcon Curious discussion Yahoo Group: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rev ... sage/20372After buying my '73 250D last fall more or less sight unseen (except for internet pics) and driving it home 1300 miles in two days with a combination of some leaking, some rattling, some moveable, and some not moveable windows, I knew that a window rehab was in order. All of the rubber and fuzzy parts were well past their prime. I did some internet research both here and elsewhere before starting. The following is what I used and what I observed / learned: 1) I bought the 'fuzzy channel' for the sliding panes from Vintage Trailer Supply and am very satisfied with it. Most of the reviews at their site as well as here agree as well. It takes a little coaxing around the corners to shape it, but I found it to be the easiest piece of material to work with. http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Air ... ts-278.htm2) I bought Primeline P7758 for the 'fixed' panes for the four most rearward side windows (all the side windows EXCEPT the front two) . It worked on the rearward four only for me because on those the fixed pane is in the forward position in the window unit and in the outer (shorter) aluminum channel. This product was a tight fit to say the least, but in a clean channel with plenty of soap for installation it went together. Some gentle tapping on the aluminum as well as clamping across the window unit to gently squeeze it back to parallel brought them together. While it was the correct dimension for the glass, it could have been a few thousandths thinner stock for this application. They wouldn't sell it direct, but a 100' roll was pretty reasonable through Home Depot. http://www.prime-line-products.com/home ... tem=P+77583) I had to use a thinner and taller product for the two front fixed panes, as the Primeline product above wouldn't go into the taller (inner) channel. I found some ½ inch tall channel for 3/16 glass at my local Ace Hardware store. I'm going to be back there soon and will get the manufacturer and part number. The downside of this is that the channel that this goes into is really more of a "J" shape than a "U" shape. The half inch dimension works good for the taller side but results in a little overage on the shorter (outside) edge. I found it to be a reasonable compromise. I might try to trim back the outside edge to neaten it up. 4) The fuzzy sweep on the vertical aluminum member was easily found at Ace as well. Once the old fuzzy strip was out of the main aluminum upright, I noticed it had a light aluminum backing crimped to it. I didn't try to peel the old fuzzy out of it's light duty aluminum backing. I instead bought fuzzy stock with a slightly wider "T" base (to mimic the original full dimension of the crimped aluminum) and was very satisfied with the results. 5) The one piece that I gave up on was the rubber on the vertical aluminum member that more or less attaches it to the fixed pane (same aluminum with the previously described fuzzy sweep). Not finding anything thin enough, I just was careful to leave it alone. Once back together the units were reinstalled with ½ inch wide butyl glazing tape, also from Vintage. I am still looking for the "filler" pieces (two sizes need for the side window units, bigger for the door window and rear bathroom window). I plan on getting to a big car show locally at the end of the month and checking out some of the weatherstrip vendors. If that doesn't go anywhere I am going to simply reverse my remaining fuzzy channel (from Vintage) and the Primeline product and glue it in place. If it is too loose (as it will be somewhat hollow inside instead of solid like the original) I might try putting a thin piece of automotive vacuum hose in it to expand it out to a tight fit. The good news is that I was able to reinstall the windows without these pieces, as they are easily accessed even with the units in.
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