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What to look for when buying a Hall GTC
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Author:  NicksGarage [ September 24th, 2012, 9:42 pm ]
Post subject:  What to look for when buying a Hall GTC
I've had a couple people ask me about what to look for when buying a GTC. There aren't that many out there but it might be useful for potential buyers. These are mostly items related to the GTC, you still have to do the basic RV inspection.

If you have something to add, reply to this post and I'll keep the list updated.

Coach Body

  • Condition of the fiberglass, underbelly, and especially around the rear wheels as there is often damage from blowouts.
  • Any extra holes in body - roof vents, roof a/c, roof racks or storage pods, antennas, awnings.
  • Subfloor damage which will most likely be behind front seats and around dinette table case on wall. Typically caused by window leaks.
  • Look at wood floor under rear of bed where the water pump is, can be from plumbing and also the windows.
  • Do the windows operate.
  • Missing window parts - latches and aluminum strip on edge of fixed panes.
  • Condition of rear bumper.
  • Grilles for A/C over cab (outside above front doors).
  • Trim around lower body.

Van Body

  • Rust in cab floor under driver’s and passenger feet. You can usually see if there is rust through from under the rig if you can’t pull up the carpet. This is fairly common.
  • Rust in doors, feel underneath.
  • Rust in windshield pillars near top of windshield.

Equipment

  • Generator, is it a gold Generac 5000/4000. How many hours, hour meter is inside entry door.
  • Does it have two gas tanks or one.
  • Does electric step work, condition of fiberglass panel mounted underneath. There is a switch on dash to lockout step so it has to be on to operate.
  • Does it still have sliding battery tray in left side compartment.
  • Does it have A/C unit over cab, does it work.
  • Do the interior lights work. Porch, step and overhead lights are controlled by switches next to entry door, these switches go bad but are easy to replace.

Other

  • What paperwork and manuals does it come with. (I’m dying to find a copy of the Hall GTC manual)
Author:  windymatt [ September 29th, 2012, 11:08 am ]
Post subject:  Re: What to look for when buying a Hall GTC
I would also include: What is the condition of the steering system? I had to replace everything from the steering box to the tie-rod ends because of excessive wander, including the pump, hoses, drag link, tie rods and drag link. A big job!
What about the engine and transmission? I ended up replacing both. $$$
What about the clearance lights? Occasionally there will be issues with these that requires quite a bit of detective and replacement work.
Is there any evidence of freeze damage to the house water system? This is a common issue with RV's and can be very challenging to deal with.
Rodent damage? Another common problem with any vehicle that has been left sitting for a length of time that can be quite the project to fix!
Author:  NicksGarage [ September 29th, 2012, 12:22 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: What to look for when buying a Hall GTC
Well I kind of covered all that stuff with the statement "These are mostly items related to the GTC, you still have to do the basic RV inspection" but maybe I need to add a list of these?
Author:  windymatt [ September 29th, 2012, 1:42 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: What to look for when buying a Hall GTC
Oh yeah. Thing is that a lot of what seems basic (especially after owning one for a few years) may not be all that obvious to a 20 something...... I thought that I'd inspected all the usual stuff before I bought mine!

Being Hall-specific, I would take a good look at the body seals between cab and chassis, the AC vent grids, and the side to bottom aluminum trim strip that is the foundation for the screws that hold things together down there - - - There is a wood backing behind the FG body panels the screws need to bite into that was rotted in several places on mine that turned out to be a difficult project in itself. Mainly because the screws they used originally weren't stainless or bronze, they don't want to come out and many require drilling and/or grinding with a Dremel to remove the strip - to get to the wood. These are the hardest %#!* screws I've ever had the pleasure of trying to drill out.
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