In order to fix the fuel vapor leak in the upper filler pipe and breather, you must first remove the toilet. Removing the toilet is an exasperating exercise because of the closet bolt locations, the 3/8" copper water connection and the general lack of easy access. I decided to drill a second access hole for the rear bolt, which worked very well. Since I am not a big fan of the original equipment Thetford Aqua Magic - for several reasons - I decided to replace it with something more up to date and easy to maintain.

After a lot of looking for a unit that would fit in the very specific and limited space provided, I bought a new Thetford Aqua Magic V. It has a much improved toilet seat shape, the lid doesn't hit the lavatory cabinet door, it uses a single double-position pedal control, weighs about 1/3d the original and, thanks to the original 4-bolt toilet flange, the thing is easily removed and/or installed. What an improvement! Now if I need to get back into the chase behind the head I can do so without major surgerey and scraped knuckles and bad humor. In my case, I had to replace the freeze damaged copper feed line that had expanded enough to make using new comperession fittings impossible. I went with 1/2" reinforced clear "soft" polyethelene tube and barbed end fittings, which provide excellent flexability.

I highly recommend this improvement to anyone with a GTC.

Here are the pictures. There must be some way to get to those bolts without drilling holes in the toilet.

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Nick Taylor - Green & White 1974 Hall GTC.
www.NicksGarage.com == www.HallGTC.com == www.NicksTeardrop.com

One access hole, the one on the left, is provided by the factory, but is way out of alignment with the fastener, which is tucked under the back of the bowl. Since I never liked the original toilet much in the first place, drilling a second hole didn't bother me - but it still required accessing the (totally invisible) nut from behind. At least I could see it! I used a 1/2" box ratchet to (eventually) remove that %$#! nut. The new toilet has fully visible and accessible fasteners; a big improvement.

It does look like a nice upgrade. Especially since some people can't get over using a toilet that someone else has used.

Does the panel behind the toilet and around the sink come off easily when the toilet is removed?

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Nick Taylor - Green & White 1974 Hall GTC.
www.NicksGarage.com == www.HallGTC.com == www.NicksTeardrop.com

I had a hell of a time figuring out just how to remove that panel, but once I did it seemed easy. You know how it goes.

After removing the screws it must be pulled out toward the left and forward at the same time. It wants to hang up at the underside of the vanity and the teak trim strip at the bottom. I found just the right combination of force, body English and swear words to make it work. It will NOT come straight out.

At least for the most part Hall made it possible to get to thing. Most of the old motorhomes I've seen in the junkyard you can't get to everything. On these you just have to figure out the secrets.

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Nick Taylor - Green & White 1974 Hall GTC.
www.NicksGarage.com == www.HallGTC.com == www.NicksTeardrop.com

Yep. AND, I'd like to confirm that tightening the hose clamps has cured the gasoline vapor problem completely. I can hardly believe it. Given that all GTC's have these 2-part rubber hose sections, and given that they are all > 40 years old now, I think it's safe to say that this should be a critical maintenance item. All it takes is one spark..............

is that the aqua magic low profile? they have a taller version as well..im just wondering what the specifications were..they actually have quite a few models...

You need the low one because it sits on a platform. The high one is meant for mounting to the floor.

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Nick Taylor - Green & White 1974 Hall GTC.
www.NicksGarage.com == www.HallGTC.com == www.NicksTeardrop.com

Yes. Low profile it is. It fits better than the original.

I did oodles of research on this and looked at virtually every marine and RV toilet on the market. This is the ONLY one that fits the space and does not require some sort of modification. The toilet flange needs to be turned about 1/4 turn to the left (loosened) to allow the bolts to lign up with the toilet properly. The builders didn't use any glue and it's easy to do.