Anyone know how many amps the stock Alternator is? 60 or 100? Mine even with the belt tighten has a lot of play internally. I've got it out but wasn't sure how you know what amp rating it is. Price wise 60 vs 100 is a big price differeance.

You probably have the standard Chrysler 60 amp alternator. The 100 amp one is a lot bigger and requires totally different brackets. See the pictures below to identify.

60 amp



100 amp

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Nick Taylor - Green & White 1974 Hall GTC.
www.NicksGarage.com == www.HallGTC.com == www.NicksTeardrop.com

Ok yeah I have the 60 amp then. They have them in stock

The 100 amp ones aren't that common, especially in the vans. You see them mostly in cop cars or other emergency vehicles that have a lot of equipment to power. We just have extra batteries for that.

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Nick Taylor - Green & White 1974 Hall GTC.
www.NicksGarage.com == www.HallGTC.com == www.NicksTeardrop.com

Next time someone has the Dog House off can you take a picture of where the long bolt goes through the alternator and threads into the block? Mine appeared to be missing something to keep it from moving back and forward on the bolt. That is what killed the other one that was on there. We ended up fabbing our own part to fix this but I am wondering what part was missing from mine. I'll post a picture of mine tonight with how we ended up doing it.

I'll see if I can get you a picture tonight. Tried to see from the front but all the hoses are in the way. I'm going to the junkyard on monday and I'll take a look there as well.

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Nick Taylor - Green & White 1974 Hall GTC.
www.NicksGarage.com == www.HallGTC.com == www.NicksTeardrop.com

The bolt goes right into the head. There is a spacer that goes over the bolt to keep the alternator in the right place.

Couldn't get a good picture from my GTC but it's the same thing as on my Dodge truck so here is a picture from that.

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Nick Taylor - Green & White 1974 Hall GTC.
www.NicksGarage.com == www.HallGTC.com == www.NicksTeardrop.com

Thanks for posting that picture.. That's how I thought it'd should work but on my Hall the bottem adj bracket and belt doesn't line up if I try to mount it like that with the Alt in front of the metal bracket. Oh well mine is solid now with the custom spacers.

How did your alternator swap go? Mine has some issues, I think, since it won't bring the bat. up beyond 12.7 VDC, and the highest amps I've measured have been only 4! I just ordered a new 75 Amp version and am keeping all my fingers crossed that it will fit. I replaced the regulator to rule it out as the culprit. The big drag (as we all know) is getting to the bloody bolts and nuts; and I do mean bloody! The other thing I've noticed is that there is barely any current flow going to the house batteries. Being a pretty savvy electrician I'm having a hard time understanding what the issue(s) could be, since all the grounding is good and the + conductors appear to be fine.

Ideas???

You know I didn't check voltage as I didn't have a problem other then I noticed it was making bad noises when running. I did have to replace all the fuses to the house batteries before they would charge. come about march when I start work again I'll take a look but I didn't appear to have a charging issue.

So do you have 2 big fuses in-line from the chassis battery to the house batteries? The circuit on mine goes like this: # 2 conductor (red) is connected to the + front bat. terminal, then to a large DC rated fuse in holder, to the battery isolator solenoid, then back to the coach battery compartment and a second fuse and block, then to the + terminal on battery bank. I've had problem with fuses blowing, but it was because previous owner didn't know the differrence between AC and DC fuses. I'm beginning to worry that my house batteries, which are VRLA (valve regulated lead-acid) 6 volt in series to give 12 volts, might be on the road to ruin - are have already arrived. This would be an expensive bummer. At any rate I hope to have the new alternator by tomorrow - Jan 31st - but am not looking forward to the installation!

I couldn't get a real good picture on how mine is wired up because the coach is parked too close to a fence. This the fuse on my battery box.

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Nick Taylor - Green & White 1974 Hall GTC.
www.NicksGarage.com == www.HallGTC.com == www.NicksTeardrop.com

Yes that is how mine is setup. I had to replace the fuses as they were only letting a trickle of power through. Once replaced everything worked fine.. Although we had plugins at fisherman's bend so I didn't really test the system out to hard. I still need to replace the fuel pump on the generator.

So I see that both you guys still have the original slide-out battery boxes installed. Mine has the box removed to allow for 2 big 6 volts in series that give me about 230 amp hours capacity. Your comment about the fuse not letting full flow through is a real wakeup for me, since I just can't seem to get a good flow from front to back for some reason. I think I'll check the Ohms in the fuses tomorrow. Also, I put in the new 75 amp alternator today and what a difference! It now has nice bright lights even at idle Hot dog!

Any tricks to swapping the alternator or do you just have to dive in? My whole system seems to work fine but of course I haven't camped in it yet. I keep the coach plugged in at the house to just a regular extension cord. I still need to put my 30 amp box on the side of the house so I can plug in the main cord (which needs to be replaced).

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Nick Taylor - Green & White 1974 Hall GTC.
www.NicksGarage.com == www.HallGTC.com == www.NicksTeardrop.com

As a matter of fact I DO have a tip about replacing the alternator - - - Don't try it alone! Because of the location of the A/C compressor (right on top of the alternator) and a plethora of A/C and heater hoses blocking access, you will find the operation very challenging to reinstall it after merely a hard job of removing it.

You will need to remove the doghouse to get at the electrical connections and to lower the alt. to the the top of the right-hand frame rail, since the only reasonable route to getting it out from under the hood is through the space between the the inner fender panel and the frame. Even then you will need to finesse it a bit. The most difficult part is getting the main support/pivot bolt to align with the (invisible) threaded hole in the front of the head (or is it the block?) because the alternator must be supported and manipulated from inside the cab while the other guy attempts to find and start the bolt from the front. One of the issues is to get the rear spacer on to the end of the bolt when it protrudes through the rear alt. bracket, and keep it there when attempting to start the bolt. Fun! With all the fussing and figuring it took us 1.5 hrs. to install it, and 20 minutes to remove it. Make sure not to mix up the wire connections when you're done! I made the decision to buy a brand new, not rebuilt, alternator and charge controller, since all the rebuilts I looked at were really sketchy. Spend a little more and do it right, cuz the job is a pain.

That's why I like the later style front end with the longer snout like my Brougham. Much more room to work on things. Plus it helps that I removed all the underhood A/C parts on that one.

Those spacers on the Chrysler alternators are always fun. Just be glad it doesn't have the 100 amp alternator which weighs about 3 times as much and is twice as big.

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Nick Taylor - Green & White 1974 Hall GTC.
www.NicksGarage.com == www.HallGTC.com == www.NicksTeardrop.com

Amen. The room under the hood of the B vans is minimal at best. I guess that I'm going to find out just how much fun working in there can actually be, since I've decided to replace the engine! To do it I need to remove, not just move, the A/C compressor, and we all know what THAT means. My sense of guilt will only be partially reduced because most of the freon has already departed for the upper atmosphere. The alternator works extremely well now - I should add that I bought a new 75 amp version from Powermaster Performance and I highly recommend one > a rebuilt.