So I had to replace my brake light switch last year.. The new switch works great and is the exact same size but the issue I have now is no matter how I adjust it the brake lights stay on unless I lift up on the brake pedal. My wife and I are not a big fan of this new feature. Any Ideas on how to solve it? I tried soaking the whole assembly with breakfree to see if it was sticking but there doesnt seem to be enough push back to return the pedal all the way back up. Short of replacing the Master and Brake booster or adding a return spring I am out of Ideas. The brake light switch just can't adjust back anymore and it is the exact same as the old so I'm stumped. Oh and brakes work great and do not appear to be dragging.

I just went through my Haynes manual for 71 - 91 vans and can't even find a reference to adjusting this switch. Are you 100% sure that it's an identical replacement?

What was the reason for replacing the original switch? Typically it is the booster and mastercylinder that function as the return for the brake pedal. You may have to modify it to make contact with the pedal better. Maybe add some metal to the pedal itself instead of trying to move the switch. Does the pedal seem lower than normal?

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Nick Taylor - Green & White 1974 Hall GTC.
www.NicksGarage.com == www.HallGTC.com == www.NicksTeardrop.com

the orginal switch was bad. I have read on other cars of this happening and they had to bend the mount back to fix it. I will revist once the Fuel/Carb/Cooling system work is done.

I think I got this fix by adjusting it as hard against the stop as I could.. Time will tell.

Well still having the issue.. I think my brake booster might be tired. I gather thats where the return spring is. I think that might be on the list of things to do after this next trip.

Well one way to fix the problem I saw some one selling a kit that gave us the idea. It just needed a little help to return enough to kick off the brake light switch.

Booster tested ok the issue is play at the pivot. If you use this fix make sure the spring is not making it harder to brake. Also if your brakes are dragging this is not a fix for that.

I haven't had that problem with either of my coaches. The booster on my GTC is currently bad and needs to be replaced. From what I remember a week master cylinder piston spring can cause this light issue as well.

_________________
Nick Taylor - Green & White 1974 Hall GTC.
www.NicksGarage.com == www.HallGTC.com == www.NicksTeardrop.com

Another thing that can cause this is a bad master cylinder. When vehicles sit for a long time without being exercised several things can happen: Moisture from condensation can form in the reservoir, which causes rust that finds it's merry way into the cylinder. The rubber can hang up and/or be ruined by the rust and associated roughness. The rubber can/will become gummy and not move freely within the cylinder, especially on the return stroke. The check valve can fail.

I replaced the master cylinder in my rig because the fluid in the reservoir had a dirty, blackish tint. This is a sure sign that things have gone bad internally.

In northern Europe where it's cold and wet in the Winter it's standard maintenance to flush and replace the hydraulic fluids every two years, and the coolant every year just because of these problems. Over there people drive less so vehicles tend to sit a lot. Just like our motor homes do. Considering the importance of being able to stop when you need to . . . . . . . . . .

Yeah I'm not having any issues like that.. Fluid looks good and brakes work good. Seems like the play is at the piviot point. If it wasn't for the replacement brake light switch needing a mm more back pressure I wouldn't have bothered with the spring.

Interesting. You'd think that they would have provided a Zerc fitting on that joint to prevent that kind of wear. Maybe it was decided that the booster would need to be replaced before the bearing went bad?