As Nick already knows, I had a monster blowout on one of the dual wheels a couple of months ago that did some superficial damage to the left-rear aluminum trim strip, fender, body attachments and the loss of a mudflap. It's all repaired now, but there are a few things that all Hall owners need to be aware of concerning the method of securing the body shell sections used by Hall. This is also important to know if you find that you need to get into the space containing the Thetford waste valves.

Hall used zinc coated flathead wood screws to attach the trim strip and all the GRP body parts - not galvanized, stainless or bronze, which they should have used. The problem is that the screw heads become rusted over time, which makes getting a good bite with a screwdriver extremely difficult - if not impossible. The other problem is that oxidation developes on the threads that cause them to lose their ability to move one way or the other, which means drilling them out. Drilling out these screws is like drilling case hardened ax bits. It took me and my brother two days and 6 cobalt bits, several Dremel tools, a side grinder and profuse swearing to remove enough screws to do what needed doing. These same screws were also used on the big rear panel that covers the gray water tank and gas tank access.

We also discovered that 2 X 4's were used as something to fasten to on the rear rocker panels and that, over time, water found it's way in sufficient quantities to rot out a fair amount of material. This required me to drill new holes through the trim strips and to use 2 1/2" silica-bronze screws to pull it all back together. Because Hall's workers didn't do it at the time, we had to reinforce the rounded section where the sides meets the back of the body to pull the body panels back in proper position. This was done by removing the tail light fixture for access, making a pattern out of heavy aluminum foil to fit the inside radius and fabricating a wood section to match. The wood piece served as an anchor point for the screws, which was omitted when the thing was built. It worked well!

I have to add that both my brother and I were brought up in the boat-building world and are pretty good at fiberglass work, so the cracked fender and buggered screw holes were things we knew how to handle. If any of you want long-distance help with this kind of stuff, feel free to ask.

Any pictures?

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Nick Taylor - Green & White 1974 Hall GTC.
www.NicksGarage.com == www.HallGTC.com == www.NicksTeardrop.com

Unfortunately, no. We thought of it after the fact, but that won't help... I can take some of the exterior patched areas though.

Ok, I was just curious what it looks like up in there.

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Nick Taylor - Green & White 1974 Hall GTC.
www.NicksGarage.com == www.HallGTC.com == www.NicksTeardrop.com

As far as that goes, I have to say that I've never seen such great workmanship in plumbing and wiring in another RV, even though access for repairs is very challenging, for example:

In order to access the waste valves and assosciated plumbing, it is necessarry to first (carefully) cut off the Thetford fitting on the outside of the cover panel. You can do this by making a radial slice through the fitting that doesn't damage the underlying 3" ABS pipe, and then peeling the fitting off with channel locks and cleaning up the remains with sharp tools and sandpaper. After removing all the bits and pieces, the panel screws can be removed and then the panel itself. I make it a habit to replace all screws with stainless to make any further work much less problematic. Think of the Hall as a boat with wheels.

As you know the dump valve handle on the side was knocked off of my GTC so I'll need to get in there to fix it. I already got a replacment Thetford ring and I'm thinking I should just attach it with a couple stainless screws and sealer so it can be removed later without having to cut it off. I don't think the valve is damaged but probably the remote control rod is.

I haven't even done anything with mine for a while. Still haven't tackled a window. Been spending too many weekends camping in my teardrop trailer.

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Nick Taylor - Green & White 1974 Hall GTC.
www.NicksGarage.com == www.HallGTC.com == www.NicksTeardrop.com

The valve extension rod is a piece of aluminum tube, threaded at both ends, and sould be a fun thing to replace. My valves, at least one of em, don't close without a bit of seepage so I had to glue the new ring back on. Can't have stuff dripping out on the highway (like so many I've seen lately!).

By the way, there's a guy trying to sell a 73 B300 cab and chassis for $200. with a 360, which has perfect factory exhaust mainifolds on it.

I can see the end of the threaded tube from the outside. I found the handle in the glove box so I should be able to fix it. Just need to find a couple of the wire bales that hold the handle in the closed position.

If I open mine up I'll take pictures.

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Nick Taylor - Green & White 1974 Hall GTC.
www.NicksGarage.com == www.HallGTC.com == www.NicksTeardrop.com

I split the parts request posts off to a new topic.

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=32

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Nick Taylor - Green & White 1974 Hall GTC.
www.NicksGarage.com == www.HallGTC.com == www.NicksTeardrop.com