Hi, My name is Ron Raymond and I recently purchased a 1974 Hall gtc. I am presently going through several updates and was looking for some answers possibly by members that have the same experiences. First I noticed that a few members have put an A/C on the roof and I want to do this but wonder if I need to reinforce the roof. Second I would like to install an awning but need to know how to attatch to unit. I'm also beginning to work on my windows re fuzzy sweep strips thanks to Nicks Garage info. Thanks to anyone who can assist me in this regard. Ron R.

Ron, I may need to send out a reminder to people to check the forum as there isn't much traffic here. That's the problem with belonging to such an exclusive group.

Glad to hear the window information has been helpful. Still need Matt to post his experience redoing his. He's completed all of his windows now and so far so good.

As for the roof A/C, I don't know if you have to reinforce the roof but you probably need to know where the steel framing is located at, one so you don't cut into it and second so that you can locate the a/c unit close to one for support. Fortunately my GTC still has the original a/c in working condition and no extra holes in the roof other than where a CB antenna is screwed into the very top. I'm sure one of the other owners can measure where their rooftop a/c unit is cut in. Oh, then you have to figure out how to get 110v power to it. Probably if you placed it near the rear bedroom, you could run the wiring up the closet wall to the roof.

Now for awnings, they typically mount to an aluminum extrusion called an awning rail. This would be screwed into the roof and then the awning would slide into that. A couple more screws to keep the awning from sliding out and you're there. You'd have to mount it to the roof above the rain gutter because there isn't enough room above the door and windows. If you look at this picture http://www.hallgtc.com/hall_008g.htm?load_img=4 you'll see where it's mounted on this rig. This type of awning does not have the legs permanently mounted to the body. They fold up into the awning case when it's closed. With the curved side of the coach you probably have to use this sort of setup. Carl Friberg's rig has the type of awning with arms that stay out but you can see that they are custom and curved at the top. I don't like this set up. See it here - http://www.hallgtc.com/hall_006g.htm?load_img=1


Still would like to see what your GTC looks like. Post pictures or you can e-mail them to me and I'll create a gallery page.

Update: Here is the page for Ron's GTC with a couple pictures he sent me. http://www.hallgtc.com/hall_010.htm

_________________
Nick Taylor - Green & White 1974 Hall GTC.
www.NicksGarage.com == www.HallGTC.com == www.NicksTeardrop.com

I'm luckily in the same boat (or coach) as Nick, with a working interior A/C, but I think I can lend a little guidance here. Since I wasn't at all sure of where the internal support frames are in these vehicles, and since Hall Coach Co is no help what so ever in the way of actual owner's manuals, I bought a very sensitive metal/density detector - kind of a fancy stud finder.

What I found is that there appears to be a total of four (4) frames: one at the front just behind the end of the A/C enclosure bulkhead; one just forward and one just aft of the door opening; and one just forward of where the body begins to curve inward behind the side window. These are approximate, so I would go out and find one of these tools to assist. Another big consideration is that there are DC wires running in the same area for the overhead DC lights. Beware!

A good thing about the Hall roof is that it's very well laminated and shows no sign of oilcanning when you walk on it. You might not need added support at all, but once you cut into the roof you're quite committed. (One of the bragging points that Hall made back in the day was the inside A/C unit because of aerodynamic cleanliness, and you might search around a bit and see if you can find something to go back in the space). I personally wouldn't put a roof AC on just because of the weight and added wind resistance.

As far as awnings go, Nick is right on. Carefree of Colorado makes a nice awning that can be bought with adaptors to handle the curvature of the side of the roof, has no ugly arms attached to the side and stores the fabric in a covered housing (so the fabric won't crap-out so soon). Because there is no wood or metal backing under the fiberglass, all the load will be borne by the fiberglass shell, so you will have to put in a lot of screws. I don't know if they still make it, but in the boat building business we used to use a bedding compound called "Dolfinite" that won't allow crud to grow between hardware and the hull - or body, in this case. Very good stuff that positively keeps out water. Let us know what you find, as this is something I really plan on doing as well.

Matt

Only four ribs? I figured there would be a lot more of them. My Brougham has them every 16".

As for awnings. On my Brougham I installed a Fiamma F45 awning that I got used in great shape off of Craigslist. The Brougham has curved sides as well. This same awning is sold as the AE Horizon by Dometic. The nice thing about it is that it has a crank and you can open and close it from the ground. My GTC is a lot taller and needs a longer awning.

_________________
Nick Taylor - Green & White 1974 Hall GTC.
www.NicksGarage.com == www.HallGTC.com == www.NicksTeardrop.com

The Fiamma looks great! From my obsessive meovide max cover. If there are more frames inside than 4, I don't know what they're made of... definitely not metal. Did I send you the link to the 77* B300 Tioga II with fiberglass body. - 4 wheel drive! On San luis CR...

OK. Whatever an "obsessive meovide maxcover" is, I'm not sure, and now I'm not sure what I actually wrote in that posting, so where did all the letters actually GO? I suspect that there's something wonky going on after I just tried to put the word "go" in italics, and what showed on the screen was two normal "i's" in brackets!

There are so many new developments with 110v AC that roof airs are no longer needed ! For 200-300 bux and more you can get a room AC that sits anywhere near a window or other opening and it has a 4" tube vent that goes outside.
All the heat for the AC internals goes out the hose. When travelling just store the unit easily. They do make outside vent doors for those who want to mount it permanently or use while travelling.
You'll be amazed at the difference driving when you take 100-150 lbs off the roof !!